Thursday, January 5, 2017

Celebrating Giant Mountain Kyoho Grapes

By Ryan Anderson


Those who have not heard of the Giant Mountain Grape developed in Japan are missing out on a real treat. Called Kyoho grapes, these purplish black hybrids are almost as large as a plum. They have become the most popular dessert fruit in Japan and are also in great demand in other Oriental countries. Other areas that grow them now are California, Chile, China, and Korea.

The two original species of grape are native to the Americas and to Europe. The two species were crossed by Japanese farmers and the Kyoho was born. It has many Concord characteristics, including a dark color, pale flesh, and a slip-skin. This refers to the way the skin slides free of the flesh; peeling a Kyoho is more squeezing it out of its skin. It has large seeds, and both skin and seeds are faintly bitter. They are discarded rather than eaten.

This resemblance is not strange, since Japanese growers crossed the Concord with European varieties to get the big, sweet fruit that gourmets all over the world love. The fruit is served peeled, but the skin slips off easily so this is not a problem. The rich flavor also comes from its American heritage; many consider the New World native grapes more flavorful than the European varieties.

The East Coast grape industry was founded on the Concord grape, but growers in California found that European vines did better in the California climate. Since most of our table grapes come from the Golden State, people have become accustomed to seedless greens and reds. However, many prefer the native kind for jelly making; although the skin and seeds are bitter, they impart distinctive flavor to the jelly.

If you can remember the taste of old-fashioned grape jelly, you have an idea of what the Kyoho tastes like. Most of the fruit grown in Japan and elsewhere is eaten peeled and chilled as a dessert. California growers have successfully imported and propagated the Kyoho vines and are now marketing this prized fruit.

If your local market has these delicacies, there are some tips to selecting the ripest, freshest fruit. The best bunches are well-shaped, with grapes of almost uniform size. They should be dark blackish purple in color, and glossy, not dull. The fruit should be firm, not hard like a rock. According to some, you should avoid bunches with soft or shriveled fruit, but others find that a little shriveling of the skin, which will be discarded anyway, makes the inside sweeter than ever.

The grapes are striking on a cheese board, and they pair well with blue and other rich cheeses. You will have to advise your guests to slide the skin off of each big grape before eating. Seeds have to be discretely spit into a napkin or your hand; they aren't sticky, so that's OK.

These grapes are packed with nutrition, including the reservatrol that is said to be so heart-healthy. They are mainly eaten but can be turned into jam, juice, and wine. They have a high sugar content, so keep them refrigerated until ready to serve. They are usually served chilled. If you get a bunch that is not ripe, just let it sit at room temperature and the grapes will ripen quickly.




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